
Every day is a fight to survive
for Africans who have AIDS
By Davan Maharaj
Los Angeles Times
 |
| FRANCINE ORR / LOS ANGELES TIMES |
| Margaret
Nampijja, a mother of four, contracted AIDS in Uganda.
Like millions of her fellow Africans, she was unable to
get drug treatment and died about a month after this photo
was taken at age 29. |
|
NAIROBI, Kenya —
A bottle of Dark and Lovely hair gel in hand, Kassim Issa pushes his
withered body down a dirt path through Nairobi's biggest slum, peddling
a few ounces at Mama Washington's and other tumbledown salons.
For Issa, Dark and
Lovely is life. The 20-cent profit from one bottle can pay for an injection
to dull the chronic pain of AIDS. Two bottles can pay for a hospital
visit. And selling 10 means he can afford a chest X-ray.
"I am fighting every
day to stay alive," Issa said. "Every day I live, I win."
Winning means another
day of difficult choices — a dinner of bitter greens or medication.
Issa can afford one or the other, but usually not both. Without the
right food and drugs, it's hard to find a better job. On top of that,
drugs that make him stronger also make him hungry for food he can't
afford.
In sub-Saharan Africa,
where half the people survive on less than a dollar a day, life is a
struggle for food, clothing and shelter. Issa and 28 million other Africans
stricken with HIV and AIDS face the extra burden of finding and paying
for treatment. Nearly 7 percent of Kenya's 32 million people are living
with the human immunodeficiency virus, which causes AIDS. The epidemic
claims the lives of 700 Kenyans each day. Across the continent, 3 million
people died of AIDS-related illnesses last year. The United Nations
reported on July 15 that life expectancy has dropped as low as 33 years
in some African countries, largely due to AIDS.
The disease has
decimated the ranks of teachers and shuttered schools. It has wiped
out subsistence farmers, slashing food production. It has taken mothers
and fathers, leaving millions of orphans.
Bringing death
home
Promiscuity
cost salesman his family
Years ago, when Issa was healthy, he brought
home about $100 a month from his job selling Dark and Lovely shampoos,
gels and hair straighteners.
The salesman also
brought home HIV. Three generations have suffered because of it. His
wife is dead. Because he cannot care for his 6-year-old son and 4-year-old
daughter, the children live with their grandmother in a distant village.
For Issa, the disease
created its own twisted logic of survival. To qualify for free doses
of the most important medication — antiretroviral drugs — from the aid
group Doctors Without Borders, Issa needed his immune-system cell count
to drop to dangerous levels.
He prayed to get
sicker. In a few weeks, he lost 40 pounds from his slender 6-foot-2
frame. His cell count plummeted. His prayers were answered.
"I could live a
little longer," he said.
Issa knows that
he brought disaster on his family, even if he didn't mean to.
"Sometimes I feel
responsible for what happened, but then I tell myself that things come
and go," he said. "I didn't do it intentionally. I tend to think that
this is the fate that befell us."
He believes that
he contracted the disease from one of the women who frequent the bars
here in the Kibera slum.
He would pay the
women about $1.25 for sex. When he was broke, the women would settle
for a drink of changaa, a potent homemade brew of fermented corn.
Issa suspects that
a woman named Rose gave him the virus. He still sees her near the bar.
Issa has noticed that she appears ill. She has sores, like his, on her
body. He never has urged her to get tested for HIV "because I don't
want the situation reversed on me. She might tell me that I gave it
to her. I don't want to be like the hunter getting hunted."
A life alone
Neighbors
shun him, but it could be worse
Issa lives in a
one-room shack made of mud and rusty metal sheets in a neighborhood
known as Mashimoni, which means "in a hole." The hovel sits at the bottom
of a dirt path that turns into a small swamp when it rains. A bare wall
is covered with green plastic to keep crumbling mud from falling into
the living area. He pays $10 a month in rent.
He is reluctant
to venture outside. Even though AIDS is rampant, he can hear neighbors
whisper. They shun him.
"It used to be
worse," Issa said, his reddened eyes widening. "They would want to beat
you. But because so many people have relatives with HIV, they realize
it's not a laughing matter anymore."
He shared the shack
with Khadija and the children until she died in 2000. She was buried
in her home village. Issa dared not attend the funeral.
"I have friends
and other people who come back from such funerals with one leg and one
eye," he said. "Their in-laws say: 'You've killed our daughter, and
now you've come to mock her. You are a killer.' "
Once in a while,
Issa receives a letter from his mother-in-law, Adelaide Maraga, who
is caring for his children in Chavakali, a village in western Kenya
near Lake Victoria.
Maraga loathes
Issa because he never paid a dowry for her daughter. Then he gave her
the disease.
Now he has saddled
Maraga with his children.
"You are there
in the city, and you're working," she told him in a recent note. "You
can't send 50 shillings to pay for your children's food and pay their
school fees? You think I'm your mother who has given birth to you? You
are a very lazy man. I do not want to see your face."
Such letters give
him headaches, but he can't throw them away. He is incredulous that
his mother-in-law thinks he has money to spare. Even the healthy suffer
in Kibera. For the sick, staying alive is a full-time job.
A vicious cycle
He
starves to save for drugs that leave him hungry
Each day, Issa
takes from eight to 11 pills in two doses. One is so big he calls it
a horse pill. The medicine makes him among the lucky AIDS patients in
Africa. Across the continent, only a tiny fraction of the people in
need of AIDS treatment receive it.
The treatments
might cost only a couple of dollars a day, but they are too expensive
for individuals. Governments and aid agencies are overwhelmed by the
number of victims. Many people seek out potions from traditional healers.
Thousands die a slow death, never realizing that they have AIDS.
On most days, Issa's
breakfast is mandazi, or fried sweetbread, and some chai that he buys
for about 8 cents from a neighborhood stall. He eats kale and grits
when he can.
Several months
ago, he treated himself to half a pound of beef, using the 50-cent profit
from two bottles of Dark and Lovely. It was his first taste of meat
in months.
Issa's strategy
is to skip meals. Sometimes he goes without breakfast, takes lunch,
skips supper and then has breakfast. But the medicine makes him hungry.
"The only problem
with the ARV is it wants me to eat," he said. "I can finish two plates
of food if I have it."
Once a week, Issa
walks four miles to an outpatient clinic at Mbagathi Hospital to pick
up his free medicine. The key to the treatment is sticking to a schedule
for taking the pills, and Issa said the threat of death has imposed
discipline on him.
"I've become more
in control and responsible for my own life," he said. "If I don't take
the tablets, I die."
Issa is guaranteed
free pills for five years. But he needs ointments for his rashes, and
painkillers and checkups. And the cash-strapped Mbagathi Hospital, where
80 percent of the 200 beds are occupied by AIDS patients, demands payment
for these.
For $1.25, Issa
gets an outpatient card that he must show to a social worker before
he can obtain other services. A doctor's exam costs $7.50, but if he
is feeling gravely ill, Issa begs the social worker to waive the fee.
He exults when
the social worker is absent or reassigned to another department. Then
Issa can beg new favors from the replacement.
But he can do nothing
for his children.
His 6-year-old
son, Isa Gazemba, is fine. Issa says his daughter, Mwanaidi, has tested
negative for HIV, but that she has the same rashes and coughs he had
before he was diagnosed.
He hasn't seen
the children in almost two years and won't visit them in the countryside
because there are no clinics and the trip would interrupt the treatments
keeping him alive.
Issa worries about
Mwanaidi, but says he has nothing to offer her now. "I feel sorry for
my daughter because she has a dark future, with nothing to cling on,"
Issa said. "She will have dark memories."
"I have sent you
two other letters, but you haven't replied ... why?" his mother-in-law
wrote in another letter. "Your daughter is always sick, you don't care.
I completely don't like your attitude. You don't even send a piece of
cloth. What do you think they wear?"
He is trying to
earn more money. If he succeeds, he might be able to pay his wife's
dowry — a cow, which would cost about $125, plus 2,000 shillings, or
$25. After that, maybe he could afford to support his children.
"I want to be around
for my children," he said. "I don't want to live a meaningless life."
A search
for work
Employers remain
wary of noticeable AIDS patients
Sometimes when
he feels well, Issa walks five miles to Nairobi's industrial area to
seek work. The guards at the gate usually tell him there is none. When
he is lucky, they let him through. But once the bosses glimpse his body
sores and blistered lips, they tell him to move on.
"They know HIV
when they see it," he said. "Everybody is an expert."
If he had a job,
he might have the $6 to buy ointment that could heal his lips or the
money for reading glasses to compensate for his failing eyesight. But
he can't do either on what he makes selling Dark and Lovely ounce by
ounce.
Issa's mother-in-law
has no time for excuses.
"Be warned, young
man. Come let us settle, you collect your children as soon as possible,"
she wrote. "I'm not writing another letter after this one. If you have
ears, you hear."
A few months later,
she showed up at Issa's shack with his daughter after a nine-hour bus
ride from Chavakali to Nairobi. Issa was elated. He had not seen Mwanaidi
since she was an infant. His mother-in-law stood icily in the room and
told the girl that this was her father.
Issa watched Mwanaidi
for some sign.
She had no idea
who he was. In a few hours, she was back on the bus with her grandmother.
Soon, Issa was
back on his rounds.
As a hard rain
pounded on Kibera's tin roofs, Issa stepped into a pair of pink pants,
a faded blue denim jacket and rubber boots. He put a few bottles of
Dark and Lovely into a gym bag and set out to collect on old sales and
to make some new ones. He had many stops to make: Ladies Choice Hair
Salon, Powerful Hair Kuts, Mama Anyango Hair Salon.
But rain kept most
of the customers away, and when they have no customers, salon owners
won't buy.
He found one of
the salons completely empty. A tailor who runs the shop next door said
the owner had died of AIDS. She owed Issa about 75 cents, money he needed
for food and medication.
"I can't ask the
family to pay this money," he said. "They have their own grief."
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